The valley of the trulli

Alberobello and the Itria valley on the little Ferrovie del Sud Est line: conical roofs, dry-stone walls and a train that waits for you.

Trains

S06 trulli 3
Route Bari to Alberobello
Time 1 h 50, FSE line
Season June
Notebook no. 21

The Ferrovie del Sud Est is a private railway with two carriages and a driver who waved at a farmer twice. It rattles inland from Bari through vineyards and then the roofs start: grey cones with white symbols painted on them, first one, then a field of them, then a whole town.

Alberobello itself is busy by eleven, so I walked out of it. The valley between Locorotondo and Cisternino is the same landscape without the coach parties, and a trullo with a green door sold me a bag of almonds and a story about a grandmother that took twenty minutes and was worth every one.