Islands & coast
Route Bar to Kotor by coast bus
Time 1 h 40 from Bar
Season May
Notebook no. 20
The bus from Bar drops you at the edge of the old town and after that you do not need wheels of any kind. Kotor is a grid of stone lanes inside a wall, and the wall goes up the mountain behind it in a zigzag of fourteen hundred steps that I climbed at six in the morning to avoid the heat and the cruise ship.
From the top the bay is a fjord that forgot to be cold. I spent the rest of the stay walking the shore road to Perast, eating grilled squid on a jetty, and watching swifts pour through the cathedral square at dusk. Notebook no. 20 has a page that is just the sound they make.
