Islands & coast
Route Volos to Skopelos, Alonissos and back
Time 8 days
Season July
Notebook no. 22
The Sporades are the islands you reach from Volos, a port city with a direct train from Athens, and they are the right size for a week without a car. Skopelos first: pine trees down to the water, a harbour that curls around the ferry like a hand, a taverna where the owner brought the fish out to be approved.
Ferries in July run on a schedule that the sea edits. I missed one, caught a smaller one, and ended up on Alonissos a day late and delighted. Notebook no. 22 is the small one because it is the only one that fitted in a swimsuit pocket.