Belgrade to Bar, in daylight

Take the day train, not the night one. The line climbs out of Belgrade through farmland and then, somewhere after Užice, stops pretending to be a normal railway. It crosses the Mala Rijeka viaduct at a height that makes the carriage go quiet, threads through two hundred and fifty tunnels, and runs along the edge of Lake Skadar with the water on both sides.

I ate a burek at Podgorica station because the woman selling them insisted, and I was right to. The last tunnel is long and dark and then the Adriatic is simply there, flat and bright, with the ferry to Bari already tied up at the pier.